Currently supplied kits already have the floor cut or welded in if chosen, you can skip the first two steps if you don't need to cut your floor from sheet aluminium.

Cut the alloy floor as shown in the picture, you lay the chassis on the alloy, mark around it with a felt pen and then cut with a jig saw with a fine blade.

You will need a lubricant to stop the alloy from clogging the teeth of the blade. WD40 works fine. Just spray it along your line before you commence cutting.

Next job is to rivet the floor to the chassis. You will need to mark the holes at 100mm centres. Take extra care when marking the holes along the crossmembers that the seats will later bolt through. You don't want a rivet in the way of your seat bolts!

You may wish to use a sealant such as PU between the chassis and floor to stop it vibrating.

Note: While you have the chassis upside down, it is now recommended to drill any holes (and insert rivnuts if that is your preference) for mounting brake or fuel hoses. Commonly P clips are used to hold these, whether hard line or flexi lines, and to be IVA compliant 30cm is the usual distance between mounting points although just needs to be “secure”.

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The plastic sides are easy to trim to shape and fit using self tapping screws at 150mm centres. It looks much better if you just use 2 screws each end and secure the panels with PU adhesive along the length top and bottom.

G-type side panels tuck under the chassis to allow for concealed fixings. The panel may need trimming to fit

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