The steering column is shown below.

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There are several points worthy of note in the above picture.

• The spacers on the back of the brake pedal are left attached on the driver side of the bulkhead. Normally these are cut off and placed on the engine bay side, depending on the steering column length. This is adjustable with a hammer as shown below!
• Note that there is a clutch pedal switch to plug back into the loom.
• Note there is a brake pedal switch to plug back into the loom.
• Note the 2 black wires on the reservoir, these should have a plug for the brake level warning.
• A hole needs drilling then filing square for the throttle cable to clip back in to.
• A spacer is used where the clutch pedal is bolted at the top of the assembly.
• The pipe from servo to inlet manifold has a one way valve. The arrow should point to the head.
• The 'relay' on the end of the brake pedal assembly is for the fuel pump.
• Where present the steel “tab” above the clutch cylinder is for an optional diagonal brace to be bolted across to the top of the driver’s side shock absorber mounting plate, see opposite side welded tube.
• When bolting the steering column in the bolt in the clutch pedal for the column needs replacing with a longer one and a stack of washers.

On the picture above (top right) you can see the drop plate for the column, this can be altered if you would like the wheel higher.

It's possible to adjust the length of the steering rack by hitting the bracket. It can adjust either way. This helps locate the column to the rack pinion.

It is possible to cut the feed and return pipes on the power steering rack and join them with a rubber hose (below right). This will save weight and reduce engine load by removing the belt driven pump. The Exocet is light and does not need power steering. You can alternatively strip the rack, this is NOT required as even race Exocets used the pipe joining method without issue. However if you wish you can remove the valve on the centre of the rack (below left). When doing this the pinion is also normally welded. It's recommend to search Youtube as many video guides exist and show this in detail.

Only a small thing, but Mk1/NA (and maybe Mk2/NB) steering rack boots, gaiters, bellows or whatever you want to call them seem to be really tricky to source replacements for. Genuine Mazda are £80+ each and aftermarket MX5 ones seem to be quite hard plastic and just don't seem to fit. The right hand ones for a Citroen Berlingo 1996-2011 (part no 406643) fit almost perfectly and are sensibly priced. The small end is slightly tight but they are rubber, not plastic, so that's fine.